I want to make view 2. The picture shows the missing pieces, 2 facings, a sleeve cuff, the midriff and the tie.
I think I’ll have no problems making new facings and the tie. But the sleeve cuff I may be able to alter the cuff from view 1 but I’m not sure what to do with the midriff!
Make a muslin/calico?
Any help would be great!
Okay, this may sound complicated, but actually if you just go through it I think you'll find that it's pretty straightforward! This will draft about as accurate a midriff piece as possible from what you've got.
Fold the dart into the bodice front (B) piece and lay it down on a piece of paper.
Lay a straightedge on the right edge of piece B (the fold line) and draw a continuance of that line down at least six inches or so. This forms the right edge of the midriff (D) and will be a guide for a later line, too.
Fold up the seam allowance at the bottom of B and trace the stitching line across onto your paper, making a mark at the left side (side seam) stitching line. This forms the top edge of the midriff. (If you're feeling anal, you can mark the dart too.)
Now lay the bodice back (G) to the left of B, matching the notches at the side seam. This will show you the depth of the midriff - in other words, however much G sticks down below the bottom of B, that's how high the midriff piece should be. Make a mark on your paper alongside the bottom stitching line of G.
Get out the skirt front (E) and side front (F). Lap their vertical seam allowances (they only have to be correct at the top, obviously you can't do it very far down). Stick a pin in to keep them together.
Line up the right (fold) edge of E on the continued fold line you drew down from B earlier.
Slide your F-E combo up or down the fold line until the top-edge stitching line of F matches the stitching line you marked earlier from the bottom of G.
Fold down the seam allowance at the top of F-E and trace the stitching line across, making a mark at the left stitching line (side seam) of F. This forms the bottom of your midriff. (Mark the dart from E if you like.)
Finally, draw a line connecting the mark at the left top of the midriff (the side seam of B) with the mark at the bottom left of the midriff (the side seam of F).This forms the left side of your midriff.
Add a seam allowance to the top, bottom, and left side of the midriff. Mark the right side TO FOLD.
Congratulations, you're done!