I'm using Simplicity 2248 for one of the challenges. It's got princess seams (which I LOVE) but they're constructed kinda funny. The pattern piece includes both bodice and skirt. However, the seams don't go all the way to the bottom. Rather they stop where the bottom edge of the bodice would be and then release into pleats (for which the directions are their own small nightmare). It looks kinda like this:
How would you go about doing the FBA? I'm thinking I might lop off the bodice portion, do the adjustment, and then reattach it?
No takers yet, so here goes:
I love this pattern and am willing to make it with you to find out. I guarantee that I'll need an FBA also. I will be using Pattern Ease to trace [Front 1], then, I'll draw a nice line and slice the thing down from that curved Princess line on the left side of that cut-out area. Lengthwise. For me, the problem isn't in keeping the integrity of the skirt. The bum won't fit me, either, so I'm not worried about adding here. I'll add what I need to expand the edge of the bust, and carry that line all the way down, adding a couple inches to the waist and hip as well.
Slicing down gives me control over the amount that eventually gets added to the waist. I may not need to increase as much there. I use a patternmaker's curve to add or reduce. It helps to keep long(er) curves neat when drawing them.
Then, when I cut, I'll slap what has essentially become Piece 1A next to Piece 1B, lining up and pinning them down, treating them as one and cut, trying it in **muslin first**.. I'll let you know. I think it looks like more of a leap of faith than it really is, though, do not be daunted!
I also think there's more than one way to do it. For example, cutting off that little rectangle from the bottom, between the princess lines, and pretending for a moment that it doesn't exist. Then dividing the amount that you'll be adding into 2, adding to both sides evenly, then sticking the little rectangle of skirt back in there. It's still a princess-seamed dress regardless of the wonky, yet cool, skirt thing.
I have some issues with a 34" waist suddenly deemed a "Size 20". So, keep that in mind. If I had to actually maintain the waist and hip measurements, I might just adjust the princess edge of the bust only, without cutting anything off. Just taper from new bust mid-point back down to the skirt area's corner, in a very slight curve, echoing the original curve.
Then, there's Back Piece 2....So, the method depends on your needs. I have radical curves and my patterns suffer to tiny bits. Alas. Now, I should go take all my own "advice". But I hope it helps.
I ended up slicing it apart at the waistline--which left a weird little triangle between the pieces. I just cut it in half and ignored it for the rest of the adjustment. I did what I normally do and then futzed with the waist. I ended up cutting the skirt in half at the dotted pleat line and adding a little bit. In retrospect, I don't think I needed to do that because I ended up having to take in the front a tiny bit. I should have taken the rectangle out and then put it back in.
Things I really despised about this pattern: The directions for the pleats (it took me about 45 minutes to suss out what the heck they were trying to tell me to do and I still think I kinda wung it) , facing (why... just why? I should have lined it!), and the bias tape. Bias tape is, for some un-godly reason, my nemesis. I just can't get it to work. So I used blanket edging ribbon. It turned out...okay? IDK.. we'll see.
Well, you're way ahead of me. I'm still clutching it, cutting the pieces apart and thinking about yardage. The Project Runways don't give views, just add up which part you're going to do. I'm lazy. I want know 5 yards? or 6?
Re: facings. Yeah, they flop all over, including up and out if you don't tack them down, which is just a waste of time and can show depending on front fabric. Having once skipped tacking my facing, I walked into a party at a restaurant this past summer and a woman on the way out looked at me like I had 9 ears as she said, "You're **things** are sticking up." She was staring at my boobs. I laughed it off but was really annoyed. Serve me right for not tacking, as my facings were flying up towards my neck stuck *between* my D cups on one of my favorite dresses. (That was before the party even began. After I squinched the facings back down and in, I had to sit very still throughout.)
I'll have to take your comment combined with this experience and line this dress.
Re: Bias tape: I actually like bias tape. Pressing/steaming/pinning over a ham or sleeve roll makes it behave better. I'll just have to see when I get there.
Can't wait to see what you've made!
Gosh guys, I'm reading this and wondering if it would have been easier to copy the look, rather than use this pattern. Couldn't you make it from scratch by using a well-fit bustier pattern (you have one, right?), then add skirt length to the bustier, and spread the princess pieces apart according to desired pleat fullness. I really don't like to re-invent the wheel each time I work with a FBA challenge. For me, having a few perfect fitting princess patterns (bustier, dress, jacket) and you can do anything!
Probably :) But this year I've decided to really hone my sewing skills so, for me, going through the steps every single time is not only about a finished project, but learning how to GET TO the finished project. Each time is about practicing a skill and getting better and even quicker at employing that skill. Ideally, I'd love to get to the point by the end of the year where I can look at a piece of clothing and say "I can TOTALLY make that--and better!" and know it's the truth.