The Sew Weekly Sewing Circle

Can you use non-stretch fabric when the pattern says "Moderate stretch knits only"?

Ladies - some advice please.


I feel my sewing "mojo" is on its way back from holidays (it seems to have taken quite an extended absence of leave this time) - this is good news, as I have found the perfect fabric for next week's challenge!


I want to make a dress that states (in bold) to use Moderate Stretch Knits only (didn't notice that bit when I made the purchase).  The cotton fabric I want to use has got some stretch - but probably not quite the 2.5 cm (1 inch) stretch recommended on the back of the pattern envelope.  Can I use this pattern?  Would I use the size as per my measurements as per the envelope sizing? Or should I cut it out a size bigger?  Any pointers would be appreciated.


Of course I could do a muslin and work this out myself ........................

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Hi Debbie... you can but you need to adjust the easy and ignore some instructions . I cannot tell you how as I never done it but I will ask a friend that done it and let y know.
Ditto, it came up in a sewing class I took, the pattern needs to be altered. I have never tried but certainly have thought about it.
it really depends on the pattern how much you need to alter... but you need to think about the areas of the design that utilise the stretch. example... chest, waist, hip, bicep & possibly across the back shoulders. Because your pattern stretch is only moderate.. you probably won't need any dramatic alteration. I'd consider tracing one size up at the areas of the dress that are likely to have strain on them. A good way to check is  to use a tape measure laid on the pattern to figure out the finished measurement of the garment at chest, waist, hip, bicep (make sure you subtract darts and seam allowances.) Then loop the tape measure around your body and see if there is enough ease to be comfortable.
Casey... you are so smart.. Your expertise always helps me... And you tell it in plain english that simple people like me can understand.Thankyou...
I think that you can use it but your pattern probably doesn't have any closures due to the stretch fabric so it might be worth looking to see where and if you can add a zip etc to it which might be all you need.
I hope you post your results, I'm so curious how this works and I'm sure you will have great results.
Thanks everyone for your advice, if I get time this week I will cut out a muslin and see how that goes .... I will keep you posted.


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