Do you have a technique that gives you issues every time you try it? Or a weakness for a certain type of garment or fabric that just drives you nuts later?
Mine is too thick fabrics. I always pick too thick fabrics for the project no matter how much I tell myself to follow the suggestions, I always go rogue!
OOOOH... happens to me everytime.even when I do a back zipper..the neck edges wont come out even..
so frustrating.. 'The joys of sewing".ha.Judy
I hear your pain. My figure is similar. I find it easier to use patterns that fit my bust and just make the waist and hips bigger. ie. I generally just taper out from the underarm to the waist , then add a bit to the hip and make darts a bit smaller. But to make the bust on a flat pattern smaller is more complicated. I hope I can explain this in words for you!
Are you at all familiar with grading? This is a great site, but be warned.. it will look a little frightening at first. http://www.threadsmagazine.com/item/4368/making-sense-of-pattern-gr...
When you're grading a whole size evenly it's a matter of drawing horizontal and vertical lines on the pattern and either adding in (cut and spread) or taking out (fold or cut and overlap) a set amount at each line. (there is another way which involves shifting the pattern up and down and tracing as you go.. but I'd recommend starting with the cut method until you have the hang of it!)
For your problem I would try (I should mention I've never tried this!)
1. draw the grade lines on the pattern (on a traced copy!) - this is for the half front & half back bodice.
You will need parallel vertical lines running from neck to waist, shoulder to waist, underarm to waist. (see the sketches in the link below for a more precise idea on placement)
2. Cut along the lines. Overlap the pattern pieces at the top to take out excess, but leave them meeting at the waist. You need to remove 5mm on the neck gradeline, 5mm on the shoulder and 9mm at the underarm, all tapering to nothing at the waist. That way you'll get a full 76mm (3") grade down on the bust but leave the waist as is. (make sure the cf and cb section stays square - overlap towards cf & cb)
3. Now the problem part - Because you've done an uneven grade you will see that you now need to draw new smooth lines along the shoulder and underarm. And... the waistline on the pattern will have moved up at the side - but I'm not sure that this is anything to worry about, or just part of the new 'uneven size'.
(make a muslin at this stage and see if it works! - then decide if something needs to change at the waist area)
note - You will need to trace new facings from your bodice pattern.
I would love to hear how you go with this if you decide to try it! As I may need to do this one day too!
Ok Amanda.. I'm following through on this because it's helping me too!
I found some templates in my old college books and have made these pics for you. 1st up is the basic grade rules for one even size up or down. The numbers represent the mm you take out or add in along these lines. The second picture is your personal grade which removes 3" or 76mm from around the bust only. I haven't taken out anything in the length as you mentioned you are tall, so I thought maybe you don't need to. If anyone thinks I've made a mistake with this... please let me know!!!