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I've made three bodice muslins already today and I'm still struggling to get a good fit.

I'm a 36" bust, but with an F cup, so I usually work with a size 34 bust pattern and bodge-size up for the bust - I've used a full bust adjustment two or three times, but only for semi-blousy bodices with soft gathers for fullness.

Now I'm trying to get a very fitted bodice, darted at the waist and bust, and I can't figure out how to get the fit right. I'm doing the standard FBA, but it's pulling from the armholes to the bust apex (I haven't sewn the sleeves in yet, which I think may mitigate the effects, but I'd like to have the fit actually right). Do I need to add more fabric at the shoulder? The sides? The centre? Have I been too cautious with the FBA or have I overdone it?

Anyone know any online tutorials which deal with this sort of fit issue?

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THANK YOU so much! I used your suggestion to re-drape the side dart - I unpicked the side seam and dart, pinched the dart to the right position and shape while wearing the muslin, pinned in place, then stitched - and it has made the WORLD of difference to the fit! I've sewn the side seam back up and the armhole is no longer pulling, and the weird rumples that were happening around the dart have gone. Yay! So glad to have found such a simple solution. Now to see if it's still right once I've put the sleeve in...

I'm going to carefully reproduce all the changes on a new pattern piece - I think I'm going to make this my 'sloper', once I get the fit just right.


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