I am sewing Simplicity 1914 Amazing Fit dress and the next stage is the zipper insertion. The pattern instructions are for an invisible zipper, but I have not been able to find one locally to match the fabric which is a fairly heavy crepe (possibly a polyester, wool, silk blend) I was thinking of doing a lapped zipper insertion and an ordinary zipper, but because the pattern has a banded neckline, I'm afraid it would look too bulky and untidy. As there is nobody I can ask here for help, I would be grateful for your advice and opinions especially as I have never sewn an invisible zipper before. There are a few photos of the fabric and pattern on my blog and I can also upload photos of my progress so far.
Thanks in advance for any help.
I would do a centered zipper insertion, and end the zipper a couple of inches below the neckline, and use a button or two with loops to fasten the dress at the collar. This will help you to avoid bulk in the collar (and that pesky matching) but will still fix the zip issue.
This is exactly what I did with my 'Love at First Flight' dress (which has pictures and a better explanation).
Thank you very much for your reply and the link to your website. ( that's a beautiful dress, by the way) . I'll look at the instructions for a centred zipper although I am not sure that it would be best of this particular pattern and fabric.
I just bought a zipper foot and I must admit they are awesome (and you don't have to iron the zipper before hand) but I have been inserting them for awhile without one and have had no problems. It really doesn't matter if the zipper is not a match because you really won't see it. Here is a link that might be helpful. http://www.threadsmagazine.com/item/3728/sewing-in-a-zipper/page/all
Thank you very much, Sara. I bought a a concealed zipper foot recently and I'm now trying it out and practising concealed zipper insertion on scrap fabric. Once I've got it right, I think that it will be the best kind of zip for this particular dress and pattern.
It sounds like an invisible zipper would be the best. Good luck.
I hate invisible zips, and I hate doing centred zip insertions too. I nearly always do lapped zips in everything - I congratulate myself on getting another zip in and don't bother with buttons at the top either - such a rebel. It's your dress - ingnore those instructions - I dare you - go Judy.
Thank you, Meagylove and everyone who replied to my question. I inserted the invisible/concealed zip yesterday. The results were quite good for a first try and the zipper tape was visible in just one small part. I unpicked the stitches and tried to sew it again. The main problem is that the zipper sticks in different places when I try to zip and unzip it. Before sewing it, I carefully marked the seam line and placed the coils right on the seamline. Were they too close to the seamline maybe? I will try to sew it again, but would appreciate advice before I do. I did a sample with a small zip and cotton fabric before inserting the zipper in the dress and had no trouble opening and closing that.
Invisible zips can get bound up when the fabric is thick, so you have to try to sew the seam a bit further away from the coils. This goes double if you go over a seam like a waistline in the zipper. (I'm guessing you have completed your project, but left this note just in case)