Seam finishes

I finish all my seams with my overlocker (serger), but sometimes I'm not sure whether this is the best option. Should seams be sewn together or separate (I generally go together because it is easier & I think looks better, unless using heavy fabrics or there's a zipper in the seam). When should I use other finishes such as french or bound?

How do you finish your seams? I would love to learn more about this.

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Permalink Reply by margueritedesigns on March 13, 2011 at 11:11am

From things I've bought in the past, I've noticed that bound seams are usually on fragile fabrics, such as sheers and silks - I should imagine they'd be very hard to overlock. Similarly with French seams, although I can also remember having to French seam a tabard shaped apron for school home economics lessons! Can't think why we had to do it that way, unless it was to make it look neater when not in use and the seams were on show.

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Permalink Reply by charlotte tilley on March 13, 2011 at 2:03pm

I zigzag seams on my sewing machine and press open. This is because I don't have an overlocker!

Does anyone pink their seams? I do have pinking shears but I never do this because it seems to easy to be a good idea.....

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Permalink Reply by margueritedesigns on March 13, 2011 at 3:45pm

Yes, I 'pink'. I have some special left handed ones! Wouldn't be without them!

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Permalink Reply by Amy O Rizzo on March 25, 2011 at 11:32am

I pink too. Even on fabrics that don't fray a lot. Perhaps I'm over-doing it, but it makes me feel more confident about the finished product.

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Permalink Reply by Rachel Pinheiro on May 3, 2011 at 7:22am

me too hehehe

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Permalink Reply by Sarah on March 25, 2011 at 11:43am

I pink my seams. I really like this method. The fabric doesn't fray and looks neat and tidy.

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Permalink Reply by Casey Sew on March 13, 2011 at 5:50pm

I overlock the pieces first and then use open seams. It makes for less bulk at joins. eg. the side seam of skirts to bodices... or at underarm facings. For linings or very light fabrics I'll do closed seams. If the fabric is very sheer then french seams, so that you don't see the overlocking thread through the fabric.

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Permalink Reply by Eszter Molnar on March 15, 2011 at 12:19am

I don't have an overlocker either so I either use French seams or zigzag the edges which has worked well so far. :-)

On waist seams I usually sew twice and zigzag as well. Must try a waist-stay one day.

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Permalink Reply by Amy O Rizzo on March 25, 2011 at 11:34am

For those who zigzag the seams (which is what I do) do you do this for all fabrics? Does anyone ever pink them and then be done with it? Also, do you finish the seams last or as you go along? Beginning seamstresses want to know!

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Permalink Reply by Cathe on March 26, 2011 at 7:37pm

I'll either serge, French seam or pinking shears. Very occasionally I will zigzag. I usually finish seams as I go but I have learned to double check before serging a seam, what a pain to rip out!

I would really love to learn a cleaner method. All my finishes look okay but I would love to go to the next level and open to any and all suggestions.

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Permalink Reply by Jen O on May 3, 2011 at 9:01am

If you are looking for a really nice finish on seams that can be seen, try double fold bias tape or hong kong finish using colorful or printed fabric to bind of the seams (I love gingham!). I'm with CaseySew and like to overlock everything first, then sit down and sew the garment, pressing the seams open. With an open seam it's alot easier to alter the garment (a big plus).

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Permalink Reply by Rachel Pinheiro on May 3, 2011 at 7:24am

Now that I have an overlocker, I think that will seam everything until isn't fun anymore.