The Sew Weekly Sewing Circle

Hi Girls... One of my UFO's for this week is a blazer I made late last year. All I have left to do on it is sew the lining to the hem. Every time I get a little ways into it, it starts having a bubble effect. It looks like the outer fabric is being pulled up by the lining- above where the hem is on the outer fabric. (I hope that makes since.) I've tried laying it down on the table and making sure everything was flat and sewing it in and I've tried hanging it up and sewing it in that way. Does anyone have a different technique that could help, or just straight up advice. I already loath hand sewing and this little project is making it worse! Please help!! 


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Any photos of the "bubble effect" to help diagnose?

I actually already ripped out what I had done, but here is a recreation of my problem (much more exaggerated than what I was running into, but I wanted to make sure it would show up in pictures).  

The jacket body is too long for the lining body, it looks like.  By some small (yet annoying) amount.

1) if there is enough seam allowance in the lining hem, pull it down, pinning your lining to the jacket to create a little pleat (1/4-1/2" -ish?) at the bottom lining to allow for movement. press and pin as you go so that it lines up better with the jacket body and stops the bubble.


2) Either add a small piece (of ribbon or same lining fabric) to the bottom of the lining (I've never tried it, but in theory? might work?) to make up the difference if it is large and there isn't enough lining to pull from the hem.  Then, do the above.

but far easier:

3) stitch in the lining around the rest of the jacket first and just leave the bottom free.  Tuck the lining seam allowance under and hem it just to itself to let the jacket body swing free.  I've seen crocheted little threads attached to lining-and-jacket so that they remain attached, yet independent of each other.  Then, you won't have to stitch the whole thing at the bottom, just the threads to tack it down.  Threads = crochet cotton (or something thin-ish) in a matching color that are chain-stitched and then attached inside at the seam allowances, between the lining and jacket and won't be noticed.  Hand-tacked, 1/8" wide satin ribbon might work as well.  Anything slinky and tiny. (Usually, I've seen this freedom lining technique on winter coats.) Tailors use some sort of crazy embroidery stitching to cover the regular, hand thread.

 Good luck and let me know if any of these work!

We have the same thinking on the problem, but I know the lining is long enough because it actually hangs below the jacket when it's all undone. I think maybe I keep moving the lining down as I hand stitch it to the hem (extremely poor hand sewing skills and no patience for it on my part).

#3 is looking wonderful to me!! I haven't thought of doing a chain stitched attached lining. That would mean very little hand sewing. I'm so excited now! The blazer might have to move back up to the top of my project list for this week.

Thank you sooo much for your help!! I will let you know how it goes and hopefully will be able to post pictures of the finished project (yay!). 


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